The kimkhab lehenga – A mother’s legacy in gold
This treasured kimkhab lehenga belongs to Dr. Veena Gupta, a distinguished academician whose mastery of her subject was matched by her dedication to teaching. The lehenga was originally owned by her mother, Shanti Devi Agarwal, and was passed down to Dr. Veena Gupta in 1974, making her its second custodian. In 2022, Veena Gupta generously lent this heirloom to the ASMITAA collection.
A heavy gold kimkhab lehenga (skirt), made in brocade, using silk and gold threads. The fabric features floral motifs that give the appearance of surface embroidery. The heavily patterned base fabric is further enriched by a finely embroidered zardozi border in real gold thread, attached on the flared hem of the lehenga. This piece was chosen for display at the exhibition ‘aaina’, a celebration of emotions and memories as reflected in legendary Indian textiles.
Born in the year 1939, Mr. Satya Narain Agarwal, belonged to a reputed jeweller family of Lucknow whose members were treated with great deference in the society. He was the first fourth generation child born to Mr. Kundan Lal ji, his great grandfather and this was a matter of pronounced celebration! To mark this momentous occasion, not only were the great grandparents offered the golden ladder, but a special dress was made for ‘Satya’ by the Muslim karigars (craftsman) of Lucknow who worked for the Nawabs! The two-piece dress is beautifully enhanced with Zardozi embroidery in real gold and silver metal threads. No wonder, the embroidery still retains its charm even after 82 years of storage and use!
In the year 1963, ‘Satya’ met his special someone and they got married. They were soon blessed with two wonderful boys who got married in the year 1989 and 1991 respectively. Then came ‘Anya’ to Rajeev (the elder son) and ‘Karan’ to Arvind (the younger son) in the year 1996 - an occasion to celebrate again and a time for family rituals to repeat!
According to social customs, the golden ladder is offered to the great grandparents when a boy is born in the fourth generation in a family. But Anya being the first fourth generation child to Mr. Triloki Nath Agarwal, it was decided to change the customary tradition as the family strongly believed that both sons and daughters should be equally respected - the reason why Anya was never called the grand granddaughter but always the grand grandchild of her great grandparents! The family relived the old memories. A golden ladder was offered to the great grandparents and ‘Anya’ was gifted the ‘blue makhmal dress’ by her great grandmother!
It's 2025, Anya is now 28 years old and she recently lost her beloved grandfather Mr. Satya Narain Agarwal with whom she shares a special bond as they both have something in common - the ‘blue makhmal set’! It's a reminder to her of her grandfather’s unconditional love and affection and has been stored by the family with much love and care. Probably, they might also want to pass this legacy to their next generation to bring the old and the new together!
Born in the year 1939, Mr. Satya Narain Agarwal, belonged to a reputed jeweller family of Lucknow whose members were treated with great deference in the society. He was the first fourth generation child born to Mr. Kundan Lal ji, his great grandfather and this was a matter of pronounced celebration! To mark this momentous occasion, not only were the great grandparents offered the golden ladder, but a special dress was made for ‘Satya’ by the Muslim karigars (craftsman) of Lucknow who worked for the Nawabs! The two-piece dress is beautifully enhanced with Zardozi embroidery in real gold and silver metal threads. No wonder, the embroidery still retains its charm even after 82 years of storage and use!
In the year 1963, ‘Satya’ met his special someone and they got married. They were soon blessed with two wonderful boys who got married in the year 1989 and 1991 respectively. Then came ‘Anya’ to Rajeev (the elder son) and ‘Karan’ to Arvind (the younger son) in the year 1996 - an occasion to celebrate again and a time for family rituals to repeat!
According to social customs, the golden ladder is offered to the great grandparents when a boy is born in the fourth generation in a family. But Anya being the first fourth generation child to Mr. Triloki Nath Agarwal, it was decided to change the customary tradition as the family strongly believed that both sons and daughters should be equally respected - the reason why Anya was never called the grand granddaughter but always the grand grandchild of her great grandparents! The family relived the old memories. A golden ladder was offered to the great grandparents and ‘Anya’ was gifted the ‘blue makhmal dress’ by her great grandmother!
It's 2025, Anya is now 28 years old and she recently lost her beloved grandfather Mr. Satya Narain Agarwal with whom she shares a special bond as they both have something in common - the ‘blue makhmal set’! It's a reminder to her of her grandfather’s unconditional love and affection and has been stored by the family with much love and care. Probably, they might also want to pass this legacy to their next generation to bring the old and the new together!