Gold kimkhab lehenga 1930

Silk (Silkworm material); Zari

100 x 76 cm

© Veena Gupta, New Delhi, India

# VG.2022.1.1

The object is a heavy gold kimkhab lehenga (skirt), made in brocade, an elaborately patterned surface weave, created using silk and gold threads. It is an exquisite example of original ‘tassi’, a cloth woven from the purest gold in the late 1800s. This luxurious cloth was once worn by emperors and royalty. The fabric features floral motifs that give the appearance of surface embroidery. Blue and pink silk yarns are interwoven to accentuate the centre of the flowers.

The heavily patterned base fabric is further enriched by a finely embroidered zardozi border in real gold thread, attached on the flared hem of the lehenga. The peacock and floral motifs in different forms and shapes on the border are embellished with sequins and beads to intensify its look.

The garment is machine stitched and hemming is done by hand to finish the waist belt, placket and the broad red fabric band attached to the hemline of the skirt on the wrong side. Fasteners (metal hook and thread eye) have been put by hand. The tape is made by folding the red cotton fabric, that has also been used for making the underskirt. The tape has triangular shaped brocade endings.

This piece was chosen for display at the exhibition ‘aaina’, a celebration of emotions and memories as reflected in legendary Indian textiles.

Brocade

Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh

Handloom weaving

Pit loom with jaala attachment

Supplementary weft technique

Gold, silver and silk yarns

GI tagged